In October of 2018, an unexpected tradition was born when Jay crossed the pond for an epic Italian adventure. We had an absolute blast hiking the Dolomites, seeing Venice, and exploring Berlin. Never in the course of our long standing friendship did I think we would be touring Europe together, finding little adventures and hiking mountains that seemed so foreign just a few years ago. Alas, we found ourselves on the phone in June itching to plan another, all the while compartmentalizing destination contenders for possible trips in the years to come.

The rules are pretty simple for our adventures. We look for experiences that are off the beaten path, places that we haven't traveled to before, and destinations with a healthy amount of outdoor activity. Oh, and one other thing, there has to be a good food scene - food is a big component to our travels. With all the boxes checked, we settled on the Mediterranean island of Corsica for this year's adventure.

This beautiful island in the Mediterranean Sea has been a part of history since humans started documenting it. Like many of the islands in the Mediterranean, Corsica was once a part of the Greek Empire and later the Roman Empire from 238 BC. The original Greek name, "Σειρηνούσσαι" ["Seirinoussai", meaning of the Sirens], can be directly tied to Homer's "Odyssey."

In 41 AD, famed stoic philosopher Seneca was exiled to the island for 8 years and wrote "Consolation to Helvia" and then "Consolation to Polybius." The later work would eventually gain him favor with Nero's mother who famously brought him back from exile to educate the young emperor.

When the Roman Empire fell the island was subject to attacks from all over the ancient world. Eventually Pisa and Genoa, part of the kingdom of Tuscany, would rescue the island from the Arab invasion. Genoa would become the dominant ruler for nearly 500 years until finally it became independent in 1755. Corsica remained sovereign until 1769 when the Treaty of Versailles gave France ownership of the territory - angering the entire population and setting the scene for Napoleon's eventual rise to power.

The island is far too big to explore in a single week so we decided to break off the Northern half and explore three distinct regions - Bastia/Calvi, Corte, and Ajaccio. We stayed in each area for a few nights and got to experience just how different one part of the island was from the other. After a brief stopover in Paris we boarded a plane to see what this rock in the Mediterranean was all about.

Bastia/ Calvi

Upon flying into Bastia there is an immediate energy that can be felt. I'm sure starting our adventure by waking up at 3am to catch our flight and downing several French espressos had something to do with it. Regardless, islands have a different energy and Corsica's could be felt. The sun was just coming up over the horizon illuminating the terrain giving us a perfect picture of the layout. We got our car in short order and headed to the first stop on our list, Bastia.

Bastia is a small town located on the North Eastern coast. It's the largest port and one of the oldest establishments on the island. This was the region where Seneca was exiled to in 41 AD, and while it's obviously very different today, the descriptions he provided are eerily similar almost 2,000 years later. The terrain is steep, rugged and unforgiving. In the distance you can see the coast of Italy and for a moment it's easy to imagine just how isolated he must have felt during those 8 years.

The many occupying forces over the centuries have left their mark on the area. Specifically the Genoese era is where Bastia saw much of the ancient progress. Built high on a cliff is a magnificent citadel that winds down into town and eventually to a beautiful open area market on the water. It's a beautiful and quiet city for a port town and we had a great time wandering the streets and sampling the local fair.

Corsica is home to more than 50 mountains that reach over 2,000 meters [~6,500ft]. This makes getting around the island windy and time consuming but beautiful to look at and enjoyable to drive. As we winded up and down the mountains from the North Eastern coast to the West we stopped for a bit of wine tasting and lunch.

Eventually we reached our destination for the next two nights, Calvi. This ancient and alluring town sits in a cove just off the Northern tip of the island. At the centre of the city is an old citadel with 100's of years of history and strife. There is a long held theory that Christopher Columbus was born here and a new DNA project at the University of Lisbon might just prove that true. At the time of Columbus' birth, Calvi was under Genoese control and the perfect place to hide a Portuguese noble man - at least according to modern scholars

Jay booked us in an Air B&B directly in the heart of the old citadel. This place was outstanding, after we managed to find it. As you can imagine, ancient fortified cities are designed to protect their citizens not to be easily navigated so traditional directions to make a right here and a left there simply don’t work. The owner gave us a series of instructions along with some photos. This quickly turned into a scavenger hunt where we ended up comparing the views from the online listing and matching them with the obscure images we were sent (in addition to using Jay’s Spanish skills to translate the French). Eventually our hodgepodge methodology worked and we managed to find the place. The view took our breath away.

We spent two days in Calvi, enjoying the food, views and culture. There's a wonderful combination of laid-back beach atmosphere paired with a sense of adventure. When we weren’t eating delicious food we were enjoying a plethora of activities at our fingertips.

One of the main events was a boat ride around the coast. The conditions were too choppy to take out anything smaller than a double decker catamaran so we forwent our plan to rent a Zodiac and booked a trip at the local pier..

The tour took us South around the Western coast to a nature preserve that is only accessible via boat. The rugged and stunning red rock cliffs jetting out of the Mediterranean Sea were beautiful. The rain stopped just long enough to get some great photos.

Our time in Calvi was relaxing and mentally resetting. We woke up twice to see the sunrise over the island on a hill above the city and sampled much of what the town had to offer. Long removed from the ancient days of war and strife, Calvi is a serene place where one can find inner peace and relaxation or just carve out some time to read a good book and enjoy the view.

We woke up the next morning refreshed and ready to change locations. We took in the amazing view from our flat one last time and then set out to explore the church at the heart of the citadel. Towns like Calvi are almost always based around a central church that was typically at the heart of the ancient society. It’s easy to forget that the walls of the citadel weren’t created to protect the people but rather to protect the diocese that was meant to live on long after the people who built it were gone. You don’t have to be religious to feel the energy that’s emitted from these sacred places. It’s as if you can feel the generations of people that came before. Their hopes, their dreams and their desire to live a full and meaningful lives. Old churches like the one in Calvi have a way of washing out our modern concerns and problems and providing some perspective if you simply take a moment to let in their essence.

With the lighting of a candle and a few meditative breaths we said goodbye to this glorious place. It’s essence had managed to cleanse the soul in the short time we were there and it will not soon be forgotten.

Corte

Feeling excited, refreshed and ready for more adventure we set out for our second overnight destination of Corte. However, before we would arrive we would have to twist and turn our way around the coast and into the mountains for a few hours of spectacular driving. We stopped often and eventually found some of the regions renowned wine to taste at a local winery.

Corte is a commune in the mountains of the Haute-Corse region of the island. It was once the capital of the French province for just over 80 years in the 18th century. During WWI invading German prisoners were kept in the citadel. Since the 1980s it’s been a bustling college town that’s started to blur the lies of where the ancient citadel ends and the modern hot spots begin.

As we approached the city we needed to accurately pinpoint our destination on the map so that we didn’t do something stupid like drive the car off a steep cliff or get stuck in an alley where we couldn’t turn around (both comical but very real possibilities). The problem was that the directions were once again a series of photo scavenger hunt combined with some French directions. So, we did what any smart traveler with an iPhone would do - we put it in Google Translate and this is what it returned.

Join and cross the Museum parking lot from Corsica. After the short descent, you will find the parade. Take immediately your right “rue de la citadel.” It is a dead end. You can park at the end of the street. To drop off your luggage and park your vehicle or on the left side of the street in amount or place of arms. The apartment is located at 14, rue de la citadel.

If you are traveling on foot, join the Place Paoli, take the street “Scoliscia”, you arrive on Place Gaffory, take the stairs at the bottom pastry (very good by the way), on the Place d’Armes, you will find the entrance to the Citadel Street.

If I am not present, the Key is in the Key safe hanging at the bottom of the ramp: the code is 1403. The front door will be on your left (apartment no 3) If I’m not reachable, you can contact my brother.

There were a series of problems with this description. We saw the descent but we had no idea what “parade” to look for [turned out a “parade” can be a stone archway].There was no actual right turn onto a street [they were referring to a sidewalk which WAS a dead end into an actual street]. We had no idea what they were talking about for dropping off our luggage and the walking directions were simply ridiculous. Somehow very typically French to recommend a pastry shop before climbing a hill on foot to a confusing citadel.

After about 30 min of trying to figure out the French riddle, we managed to stumble onto the sidewalk that we were supposed to drive down and found a house number that matched the address we were given. Ten minutes later we found the lockbox and finally managed to get in. What an ordeal. At one point I was on my phone looking for another place to stay; having decided that the Amazing Race style riddle had beaten us. The plus side was that we were in the middle of the ancient citadel and the views were spectacular.

Corte felt like a completely different country than our experience just two hours away in Calvi. The obvious differences in foliage and atmosphere that come with altitude were present but it was more than that. The architecture was different, the food was different, and the people had a different vibe all together. None of the differences were bad it was just a shocking juxtaposition, in such a short distance, within the same country. It was becoming clear that Corsica has never lost its sense of autonomy and culture in the different regions over the centuries.

We took in the fresh alpine air as we watched the sun set over the mountains. Afterwards we headed out to experience the local cuisine and hear some live music that was echoing through the streets. The college vibe was clearly present and lively and we enjoyed a break from the otherwise quietness we’d experienced in Calvi.

The next morning we were up in time to capture the sunrise over the mountains welcoming another glorious new day on the island. As the light gently bathed the citadel we began to get excited for our upcoming hike.

Jay had done some good research and found an extraordinary hike for us to do. Since Corsica is so mountainous there are many options for good hiking. There’s actually a famous 15 day, 180 km [112 miles], hike called the GR20 that spans most of the island and has an elevation variation of 10,000 meters [~33k feet]. It starts in Calvi and finishes close to the South Eastern coast of the island. While this is something we might do in the future, our hike was far more of a gentleman’s outing.

We started in a deep valley West of Corte. The hike was called Lac du Melo and is a moderate half day hike that’s 6.4 KM [~4 miles] and has an elevation gain of 545 meters [~1,800 feet].

We couldn’t have asked for better weather. As we arrived it was slightly chilly but about mid way to the first lake the sun began to bring some warmth and illuminate the valley. The first lake that we arrived at was pristine. It was so quiet and peaceful the cows seemed surprised to see us. Not surprisingly, we were one of the first groups of people to reach the lake. It was like a buried gem deep on the island that felt untouched by humans and something you’d only see in a movie about middle earth.

After a brief photo break we continued upward. The majority of the elevation gain happened on the last third of the hike. On multiple occasions we were scrambling up loose boulders to reach the next two stopping points.

The second lake was just as pristine but a much deeper shade of blue. It was slightly smaller but more exposed to the elements. The sheer rock face that bordered the lake was a purely vertical granite facade that stretched to the sky providing a natural drama to the scene. After taking in the views Jay turned to me and asked if I wanted to continue on to the next stop that was only a short distance further. Without hesitation we agreed to carry on.

The last hundred yards was like climbing a rock ladder that moved if you gripped it wrong. It wasn’t close to a technical climb but you could see how most casual hikers wouldn’t continue to the summit. In short order we reached the top and took in the views. This spot is about day 7 (depending on your skill level) of the GR20 trail. We could plainly see where the trail stretched and carried on. Had there not been so many rugged peaks in the distance we could have seen Calvi and the Mediterranean Sea. The quiet view was like a breathtaking still landscape painting with animated clouds that never got tiring.

We made short order of the hike down and drove back into town to reward ourselves with a well deserved beer. It wasn’t a GR20 accomplishment but it was a perfect gentleman’s hike that we’ll never forget.

Ajaccio

After a brief walk around the citadel, and a delicious handmade French quiche that was ridiculously delicious, we left Corte for our final destination, Ajaccio [A-joxs-E-O]. The drive down the mountain pass was enjoyable and wraught with gorgeous views. As the elevation decreased and the air warmed we made the switch from pants and long sleeves to shorts and t-shirts.

Ajaccio is the current capital of Corsica and the largest populated region of the island. It’s been a prominent city since the Genoese built a citadel there in 1492. It was ground zero for Corsican independence in 1755 and the birth place in of Napoleon Bonaparte 1769. Today it’s a stunning beach town on the West coast of the island.

We arrived around lunch time and stumbled upon a wonderful farmers market full of all kinds of delectable items. The first stand we approached was willing to give us some samples but made it clear that all of their meats were already spoken for and not for sale. Luckily for us, the gentleman was kind enough to direct us to another stand who still had some buttery, fresh shaved, prosciutto we could purchase. The various meats and cheeses were so delicious we could have devoured the entire leg and wheel of cheese given the opportunity. We had enough willpower to save some for later and find a proper place for lunch where we got to sample a unique style of pizza that’s native to this area of Corsica. With our bellies full of delicious French fusion cuisine we set out to see the sights.

The majority of attractions in the city have something to do with the Bonaparte family. Napoleon’s father was an Italian Noblemen and a well respected judge on the island. Both of his parents were stalwart participants in the revolution of 1755. In the 14 years of Corsican independence the Bonaparte family helped secure peace and prosperity on the island in a time where the region was routinely attacked by waring nation states and pirates. When the island was given to France a majority of residents revolted but were immediately put down. It’s said that Napoleon’s mother fought the invading French troops while pregnant with the future king. After the French conquered the island, the Bonapartes managed to retain influence and power but were just as furious with the loss of independence as the rest of citizenry. It was with this backdrop, especially in the early years of his life, that Napoleon would be raised.

There are many stories about Napoleon and we learned about some new ones on the trip. He became a general at 24, he was the most powerful man in the world ruling over almost all of Europe, he had to be exiled twice because he managed to escape his first island prison, and his French was said to be terrible and he couldn’t write in the language. He was one of the smartest combat leaders the world had seen and brought France back to its former glory before he was ousted. He was a complicated and pivotal figure to say the least.

My favorite story about Napoleon took place just after he escaped exile on the island of Elba. He marched with 700 troops from the French coast to Paris. When he ran into General Ney at the base of the Alps, the man charged by King Louis XVIII to return Napoleon in an iron cage, Napoleon approached the regiment alone and unarmed. As he got within gunshot range he dismounted and shouted at the troops, “Here I am. Kill your emperor if you wish.” The crowd erupted in in chants of “Vive L’Empereur!” Ney had no other choice but to join Napoleon for the march on Paris and later The Battle at Waterloo. The decision to follow the charismatic leader would cost Ney his life a few months later as he would be executed for his actions. Napoleon would go on to rule the continent for the next 100 days until he was eventually caught by the British when trying to escape to America and would be exiled again to Saint Helena where he would die a few years later. The gumption it took to not only escape Elba but to challenge an entire regiment to a duel was extraordinary.

Ajaccio is best described as the place that James Bond takes the girl to after saving the world and defeating the bad guy. The lush beaches and clear blue water provide a tranquil atmosphere juxtaposed against the rugged mountains in the immediate distance. The architecture has hints of French, Italian and almost Caribbean like elements. The streets are pristine and the colors are a feast for the eyes. Simply put, Ajaccio is a magnificent place and the pictures don’t do it justice.

We wish we would have had more time in Ajaccio to play in the sea and sample more of the delicious food. As we were heading to the airport on our final day a bit of sadness crept into the otherwise blissful week we had on the island. For me this trip was a welcomed reset. It’s always refreshing and exciting to spend time with Jay and see what kind of adventures we can get ourselves into. A few years ago I would have thought you were crazy if you told me Jay and I would be touring Europe each year, going to exotic places and eating delicious food. Never in a million years did I ever think about going to Corsica but I’m sure glad we did. This little island has so much hidden adventure, culture and history to uncover that it quickly became one of my favorite places I’d ever been. One night when I was calling home Doreen asked what I thought of Corsica. I told her that if I was ever on the lamb she could find me here. I can’t think of a better place to lay low and enjoy life.

Until Next Time,

The McNeills