This week we found ourselves doing a little recap with each other over dinner. It was only three months ago when we packed all our items into a metal container, drove to LA and took a plane to Germany to set up shop. Those days seem so long ago. As spring has come to Berlin this week we found ourselves remembering those first few days in the city. When we got here it was cold and wet, only one of us spoke the language and neither of us knew how to get around or even what really we were to expect. The first day in country we needed to navigate the transit system and German bureaucracy as we needed to get registered and get Chad’s visa. We didn’t know what we were doing and got off at the wrong U-bahn stop. In the freezing & pouring rain we walked over a mile to the visa office with a jet-lagged three year old, trying his very best to hold it together. We didn’t know what we didn’t know, but damnit, we were here and we were going to make it happen come hell or high water.
So many weeks later so much has changed least of which is the weather. However, there is something to be said for the limitless feeling that you get when you realise one day that you don’t need to wear all those layers, bring all that gear, and relay only on the U-bahn to get around. That change happened this week and it was like a light switch. Last weekend there was rain, snow and freezing temperatures on our trip to Copenhagen and in most of Northern Europe, including Berlin. But on Tuesday that all changed and it’s been a pretty steady 20 degrees Celsius [68 Fahrenheit] all week long.
The city is all-together different with that single change. What used to feel like a ghost town is now more representative of a bustling European capital. The cafes and bars are alive with people all day long while the parks are full of smoke clusters wafting the various BBQ smells and kids screaming with joy on the many Spielplaetze [playgrounds] scattered throughout the many Kiez [neighbourhoods].
All week long we took advantage of exploring the different Spielplaetze with Logan. Some have themes and some just different structures. Generally every Kiez has a few Spielplaetze and we have yet to find a bad one. We’ve started to realise that what we used to think is super far away isn’t really that far. What once was a U-bahn ride is now walkable and what once was a U-bahn connection is now easily accessed on the bike
Chad’s been riding his bike all winter with an almost stubborn frequency that wouldn’t be swayed by something as trivial as winter. During these months he’s gotten more comfortable with the city and in particular the app he was introduced to back in January, Komoot. We used the app in Copenhagen with great success and plan to use it as we continue to travel Europe. It’s a quality GPS for biking and hiking, taking into account all of the various trails in most cities (and country routes) for different skill levels. The comfortability with the app was tested Friday when Chad thought it would be a good idea to ride his bike to the consulate to get his passport renewed. We thought the renewal was done at the Embassy just a few miles away. Once at the Embassy it was made clear that the onsite service was actually done at the US consulate 15KM away [nearly 10 miles]. Having already had the bike in hand, and no other meetings for the day, Chad set out to travel 15KM to the consulate. It was a beautiful ride and gave way to an idea for a long bike ride for Saturday that the whole family could enjoy.
Doreen had enjoyed biking around Copenhagen so much that she had been itching to do something similar in Berlin. After some research, we found a place for a weekend rental and picked a route in the app to go explore the North/West end of the city.
The ride took us out into the countryside where we saw a few lakes and eventually discovered a little village with a wonderful Greek cafe serving lunch. It’s amazing how quickly you can be in the city centre and in a few short kilometres later be in the countryside.
The path back took us by a stream in a nice park and eventually popped us back into the city near the soccer stadium. Spring was in full force at all the parks we passed through as we saw people laying in the grass reading or having conversation and grilling in small groups. Once quite beer gardens are starting to open for the season along with little popup food stands and food carts.
All and all, the route we took, plus a few detours for lunch, pictures and a Spielplatz was about 28KM [17 miles]. By the time we got back home we were beat.
Since we had Doreen’s bike rental for the entire weekend, we decided to use it again on Sunday. We had great plans to explore the other direction and follow the river to Kreuzberg; however, we didn’t plan for the Berlin half marathon that impeded our venture East. In place of that plan we decided to follow the river the other direction and head Westish to see what we could see.
The ride was beautiful and eventually we stumbled across a little cafe for lunch. It’s a different scene to see Berlin alive on a Sunday, seemingly waking from it’s long winter slumber.
On our way home we took a slight detour to see The Victory Column. Centred in a huge roundabout this monument was built in 1864 and finished in 1873. Originally it was designed to be a tower to celebrate the Prussian victory over the Danish. By the time it was completed Prussia had also deleted the Austrians and French in the Austro-Prussian and Franco-Prussian wars respectively. In an effort to commensurate these victories as well the Victoria statue was added to the plans in 1871. Victoria is the Roman Goddess of Victory and is also represented in the chariot on-top of the Brandenburg Gate. You can climb the tower but we saved that for a later date.
It’s the beginning of what is sure to be a great spring in Berlin. We have no idea what to expect since we never knew what to expect int he first place but with open arms and a curious mind we continue to absorb the challenges, adventure, and beauty that surrounds our new area.
Until next time,
The McNeills